Spaghetti Con le Sarde

Plus: Kabocha Squash Salad, Sugary Pumpkin Bread, and Breakfast at Raf's.

Hey everyone,

William Finn has a song called “A Lousy Day in the Universe” and that’s how this entire week has felt. My heart breaks for what’s going on right now, especially because my sister-in-law’s family is in Israel and she and her parents are worried sick about what’s happening. Writing about food almost seems glib at a time like this; on the other hand, cooking and feeding each other feels more essential than ever. So I hope this week’s newsletter offers up some ways to comfort yourself or your loved ones in this stressful time.

Last night, I cooked up a Sicilian classic, Spaghetti con le Sarde, which might sound like a turn off if sardines freak you out. But why should they freak you out? They’re packed with oil and therefore packed with flavor. This pasta gets the four-star treatment with garlic, anchovy paste, chili flakes, fennel seeds, coriander seeds, and golden raisins soaked in white wine.